Essential Rider Briefing: Upper Mustang Motorbike Logistics and EEAT
We design our briefing for the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour on issues that can interrupt the trip, not on some standard advice lifted from a motorcycle checklist. Having run 60+ Upper Mustang trips during the spring of 2026 and about 20 of them in September 2026, we know where the bottlenecks usually lie: bad bike, wrong permits in Kagbeni, flat tire because you do not have the right tube or tool, overloaded bike on loose terrain, or a rider who realizes too late that gravel at high altitude is totally different from normal riding.
This experience enables us to refine our trip preparation. We started paying more attention to bike provision, pre-departure inspections, spare parts provision, permit checks, and rider assessment before the group gets to Mustang. Some procedures slow down the departure by an hour or more, but we prefer spending some extra time in either Pokhara or Kathmandu rather than losing a whole riding day north of Kagbeni.
Specialized Motorcycle Fleet: Royal Enfield Himalayan 450cc vs. Honda CRF
Choosing the motorcycle for the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour should entail more than the rider's favourite choice of camera. The motorcycle must be adapted in terms of the rider's height, experience, physical abilities and comfort on loose terrain.
Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 motorcycle has a 17-litre fuel tank, ground clearance of approximately 230 mm, and a kerb weight of approximately 196 kg. It gives the motorcycle a stable ride on long-distance trips; however, it is especially hard to manage when the motorcycle stops on a climb, sinks in loose gravel or has fallen over.
Honda CRF motorcycle is much lighter, which makes it more tractable on rough terrain. The downside is that Honda lacks in terms of fuel tank volume, luggage capacity and spare parts compatibility.
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Motorcycle factor
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Himalayan 450
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Honda CRF-type bike
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Weight
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Heavier and more planted
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Lighter and easier to recover
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Fuel range
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Larger tank
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Smaller tank
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Rough terrain
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Stable but physically demanding
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Easier through technical sections
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Long road days
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Comfortable for many riders
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More off-road oriented
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Rider requirement
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Strength and confidence matter
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Better for riders wanting lower weight
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We do not issue a Honda CRF just because someone asks for it. If we do not have the specific bike ready for departure, we will inform you ahead of time and not at the last moment. Planning for our regularly scheduled Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour revolves around Royal Enfield Himalayan and Royal Enfield Classic motorcycles.
Restricted Area Permit (RAP) and ACAP Protocol at Kagbeni Checkpoint
Kagbeni is where paperwork moves out of the office setting and into the logistics of the route.
Once we ride on the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Adventure from Kagbeni into restricted Upper Mustang territory, the necessary permit and official documentation are already established. Moreover, riders travel in the Annapurna Conservation Area; therefore, the proper paperwork needs to include the appropriate conservation area permit as well.
There have been instances where bikers think permits can just be sorted out after their arrival. This is impossible in our case. Before the bikes begin their journey to the restricted zone, all names, passports, permit dates, and routes are verified against actual travelers before departure.
A wrong passport number, incorrect date of travel, or missing document can create a situation that no riding abilities can fix at the checkpoint.
For that reason, we won't let a biker travel beyond Kagbeni first and afterwards try to get the proper documentation. If the documents are not correct, the bike remains behind.
This refusal can disappoint a traveler who wants to move forward, but it is better than creating a regulatory problem for both the rider and the operating team.
Dedicated Backup Truck, On-Route Mechanic and Spare Parts Inventory
The statement of a backup vehicle sounds very good in a package description and becomes obvious when a bike stops for repairs in some remote area. On the other hand, the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour support planning relies on three issues of support: luggage of riders, repairable problems and unrepairable failures of vehicles in case of their breakdowns. It should be noted that the mechanic definitely does not possess an entire service station. However, relieving all possible problems in the field requires only the parts and tools that might resolve practical problems.
Typical preparation should include:
- materials for tire repair, equipment, and tubes
- clutch levers and brake levers, also if required
- cables and elements of electric systems, which might be needed.
- tools for chain adjustment and service.
- oils and fluids
- the elements of metal fastening, external ties and different materials for temporary repairs
- motorcycle hand tools which will be needed.
The implication from the experience of riding these roads is that more equipment does not necessarily mean better assistance. The equipment must correspond to the bikes which will be used. A spare part that belongs to a different model essentially functions as deadweight.
We do not like to ask any mechanics to try to put an improv repair in place in case we have to deal with structural damage, complex fuel issues or unsafe conditions on the way. We simply take the motorbike back home and modify our plans for the day.
Off-Road Terrain Analysis: Kali Gandaki Riverbed and High-Altitude Passes
The nature of riding quickly changes from Pokhara, and it becomes even more obvious around Jomsom, Kagbeni, and the road takes north in the direction of Lo Manthang.
Riders should expect a broken road, loose gravel, dust, corrugation, ledges, stones, steep climbs and various sedimentation in the Kali Gandaki Riverbed. The situation can be quite different a few departures later because of rain, repairs, landslides or river movement.
This is the reason why we refrain from referring to crossing the Kali Gandaki riverbed as a sure-shot activity. What proved successful in April might not be the route taken in September.
Prior to getting the motorcycles over difficult riverbed sections, the guide and the support team monitor the water depth, the current, the flow of stones, the availability of the road on the other bank and how the weakest rider can manage to cross it.
The decision is made depending on the group as a whole and not on the most skillful rider. We are absolutely fine with refusing a crossing if we think that the risks are unreasonable. The alternative could be to change the route or to go around it, to receive help from a support team, or just to wait until the conditions are conducive.
Altitude Management and Oxygen Support Above 3,800M
Lo Manthang is situated at an altitude of about 3,800 metres, whereas a trip to Kora La takes one even higher. In other words, the first challenge that a person has to face at such heights is not only that of breathing.
So, at these altitudes one has to worry about not breathing, but also about other processes like sleep, concentration and appetite being affected. Such processes are of great importance in motorcycle riding, as a rider controls a two-wheeled machine on difficult terrain.
Thus, our team is interested in the actual state of the rider, rather than the height of the altitude.
A person who has normally been riding well but suddenly gets confused about directions, brakes uselessly, or rides extremely slowly should get in touch with an expert even before exhibiting clear symptoms of altitude sickness.
The symptoms include:
- the person constantly having a headache
- the person feeling nauseous or losing appetite
- the person feeling tired
- the person being unable to move properly
- the person being confused
- the person’s riding being noticeably worse than usual
Oxygen used while travelling is only an emergency measure, which should not be abused.
We will not provide oxygen to a rider in trouble solely for the purpose of continuing his or her climb towards Kora La and asserting that the trek is completed.
In cases where the symptoms occur, it is preferable to halt the ascent, return to a lower elevation, or abandon the day's plans altogether. Losing one day's trek is surely more cost-effective than converting an altitude-related problem into a medical evacuation.
Pre-Departure Bike Fitting, Safety Gear Guidelines and Rider Fitness Requirements
The easiest mistake to avoid is the one made before the commencement of the Upper Mustang Tour.
A rider needs to be trained on the motorcycle before participating in the Mustang trip. Just being able to sit comfortably on a motorcycle in a parking lot is insufficient. Besides this, the training is aimed at making sure that the rider knows how to manage the clutch well, apply the brake smoothly, maneuver the motorcycle at low speeds, and keep the balance of the vehicle under the necessary conditions.
This is especially true in the case of heavier motorcycles by Royal Enfield. The rider may feel completely safe on the Himalayan but will find the weight of the motorcycle problematic during uphill turns or when trying to come to a stop on loose stones.
This challenge is best to be uncovered before arriving at Kagbeni. We consider protective gear to be functional riding gear rather than regular accessories. Helmets, gloves, protective jackets, riding pants, and over-the-ankle boots must be secured before departure.
The same goes for riders’ fitness. The fact that you hold a valid motorcycle license means that you have permission to ride. It does not mean that you can ride safely in the Upper Mustang.
For the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour, riders are expected to have knowledge how to change gears manually, to brake on slippery surfaces, to make a hill start, to stand on the foot pegs, to balance well while going slowly, and to recover from the situation when the rear wheel is slipping on gravel.
In the event that an operator fails to show basic control during the pre-departure assessment, that person will not be allowed into the restricted Mustang area just because the tour has already been booked.
This is one of the few decisions that should never be dictated by commercial pressure. It's easy to deal with an unhappy customer in Pokhara, but not with someone who has lost their cool more than six hours beyond Kagbeni.
Accommodation on the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour
It is necessary to avoid describing a variety of accommodation options available on the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour without giving more specifics, as one can do by saying that accommodation consists of “comfortable hotels and lodges.” It is essential to understand that the standard of accommodation varies almost every two days of the trip.
In Kathmandu and Pokhara, travellers can take a rest in a real hotel with an attached bathroom, hot water, charging facilities and the possibility to connect to Wi-Fi. However, in Kalopani and Tatopani, they will experience a mixture of staying at a lodge and a comfortable mountain hotel.
However, the situation changes when the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour reaches Chaile, Ghami, and Lo Manthang. Accommodation depends on not only the village, where travellers are, but also the season, the amount of solar power, the availability of water supply, and how early someone booked in advance.
Based on the experience of 60+ Upper Mustang tours in spring of 2026, and over 20 tours in September of 2026, we do not promise the same standard of accommodation every night and would rather warn our clients about dropping comfort levels than explain to them how cold rooms in Kagbeni are after their arrival.
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Overnight Stop
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Typical Accommodation
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Bathroom Reality
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Hot Water
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Charging/Wi-Fi
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Our Practical View
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Kathmandu
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3-star or similar city hotel
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Attached
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Reliable
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Reliable
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Use this night to organize gear
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Pokhara
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Tourist hotel
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Attached
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Reliable
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Reliable
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Last easy reset before Mustang
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Kalopani
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Mountain guesthouse/lodge
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Often attached or better shared
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Usually available
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Generally available
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One of the more comfortable mountain stops
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Chaile
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Small village teahouse
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Mostly shared
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Limited, often paid
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Limited
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Expect function, not hotel comfort
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Ghami
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Traditional lodge/teahouse
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Mostly shared
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Solar/bucket where available
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Limited
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Cold bedrooms are normal
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Lo Manthang
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Better Upper Mustang guesthouse
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Shared, some attached rooms
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Usually available, not always unlimited
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Better than smaller villages
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Best accommodation inside restricted Mustang
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Kagbeni
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Established lodge/guesthouse
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Mix of attached and shared
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Generally available
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Usually available
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Noticeable comfort improvement
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Tatopani
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Lodge/hotel
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Many attached options
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Generally available
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Usually available
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Recovery night after rough riding
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Bandipur
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Heritage hotel/guesthouse
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Usually attached
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Reliable
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Reliable
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Comfortable final road night
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Kathmandu
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City hotel
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Attached
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Reliable
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Reliable
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Final shower, repack and departure preparation
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Meals Arrangement Enroute
Food in Kathmandu and Pokhara
During the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour, you will have the most food options in Kathmandu and Pokhara. You can choose to eat Nepali, Indian, Tibetan, Continental or international dishes. Nevertheless, it is highly recommended to eat a light dinner prior to the long riding trip. Heavy alcohol, spicy food and eating late are not conducive to an early motorcycle departure.
Meals from Kalopani to Kagbeni
When the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour enters Kali Gandaki, the meals served at the lodges are simpler, but practical. Common dishes that you can find are dal bhat, noodles, fried rice, soups, eggs, potatoes, Tibetan bread and momos. According to the Nepal Tourism Board, basic Nepali food includes dal bhat, tarkari, roti and momo.
We would like riders to choose fresh food instead of having a wide choice of food.
Food in Chaile, Ghami and Lo Manthang
With the location within the Upper Mustang, the menus become limited because of the distance travelled by the products and the poor agricultural development of the area. It is typically possible to find a wider variety of food in Lo Manthang as opposed to other small locations. However, it still depends on the season and the availability of the food.
We consider the following rules.
- Have breakfast no matter whether you want to eat or not.
- Can eat food from known suppliers nearby.
- Drink water before feeling thirsty.
- Whenever possible, avoid using anything made of raw products if hygiene of preparation is not guaranteed.
Food Before Riding
The breakfast you will get usually consists of eggs, porridge or some variety of Tibetan bread, chapatti, potatoes, or toast served with tea or coffee. Generally, just before going over bumpy parts, we prefer to eat something heavy but not too oily.
Hydration and Rider Recovery
The upper Mustang is arid, breezy and dusty. It is very easy for riders to lose fluids without their awareness. Hence, we consider hydration - eating soup, drinking tea, water and making use of electrolytes - as part of preparation for riding, not as an option.
If someone experiences nausea, dehydration or loss of appetite when ascending to high altitude, we do not just put them back on the bike without analyzing the situation first as to what the problem might be.
When to Ride Upper Mustang: Seasonal Guide and Climate Analysis
Timing is the most critical aspect of the tour, as you need to coordinate the off-road terrain, mountain visibility and the weather at high altitude. The distance of Upper Mustang from the range of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri creates a rain shadow, so the weather will be different from the rest of Nepal.
Best times to ride: Fall (September-November) and Spring (March-May)
Fall provides great riding conditions, especially after the monsoon season, with clear skies, stable tracks, minimal dust, and magnificent views of the Himalayas. Spring means higher temperatures, flowering plants in the lower valleys, and high passes lying open. The month of May also coincides with one of the most famous events in Upper Mustang – the Tiji Festival.
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Season
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Average Temp (Day / Night)
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Trail and Wind Conditions
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Autumn (Sept - Nov)
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12°C to 18°C / -5°C to 2°C
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Dry, firm off-road trails; low dust; predictable morning weather
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Spring (Mar - May)
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14°C to 20°C / -2°C to 5°C
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Clear high passes; moderate dust; ideal for Tiji Festival dates
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Monsoon Season (June to August): Riding in the Trans-Himalayan Rain Shadow
Although heavy rain falls on lower Nepal, Upper Mustang enjoys the advantage of its rain-shadow effect, allowing for dry trails and green valleys to emerge. Careful riding is conducted along the highway (Kathmandu to Tatopani), as the lead road captains are vigilant for mudslides and other seasonal risks.
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Month
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Rain Shadow Status
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Trail Advisory
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Key Advantage
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June – August
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90% Rain-Free north of Kagbeni
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Wet lower access roads; dry high-desert dirt tracks
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Empty trails and vibrant valley agriculture
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High-Altitude Wind Patterns: The Kali Gandaki Valley Afternoon Gales
Strong southern winds caused by thermal lifting occur in the Kali Gandaki Gorge every day around the time between 11:00 AM and 3:00 PM. The wind, which is full of fine glacial dust, affects the stability of rides. As such, all expeditions over high passes (such as Nyi La at 4,020m) are planned to take place as early as possible in the morning in order to avoid the wind.
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Time Window
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Wind Velocity
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Trail Impact
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Operational Riding Protocol
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06:00 AM - 10:30 AM
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5 - 15 km/h
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Calm, clear visibility
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Primary window for pass crossings and dirt trails
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11:00 AM - 03:30 PM
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35 - 60+ km/h
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Heavy dust, low visibility
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Lower valley transit or sheltered town arrival
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Winter Off-Roading (December to February): Cold Weather and Snow Pass Viability
The coldest temperatures occur in winter, in the range of -15°C at Lo Manthang (3,840m). High passes like Nyi La become blocked with ice, and local tea houses move south in order to survive the cold weather, thus requiring the proper management of batteries and oil heaters.
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Month
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Night Temp
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Pass Status
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Expedition Status
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Dec - Feb
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-15°C to -20°C
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High risk of snow/ice blockages
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Not Recommended (Extreme expedition only)
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High-Altitude Technical Support and Emergency Preparedness
On the Upper Mustang Journey, we start preparing for contingencies with a single question: how does the group continue if a motorcycle, or a rider, cannot move on? With over 60 Upper Mustang tours conducted in spring 2026 and more than 20 in September 2026, we regard backup transport and emergency retrieval and evacuation planning as an integral part of our operations.
4WD Support Vehicle Logistics and Daily Luggage Transfers
The 4WD vehicle provides luggage transport, spare parts, and tools, enabling the riders to avoid having to carry heavy bags on the bikes through gravel, river beds and steep sections. We provide information about our backup jeep and our mechanic, along with the guide, in our 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour travel package. Hence, the vehicle can be used whenever a rider cannot continue riding or is injured.
Comprehensive Spare Parts Carrying and On-Trail Mechanical Repairs
The mechanic is equipped with tools and motorcycle-specific consumables needed for the fleet. The main items include devices such as tubes, cables, levers, chain tools, fluids and electrical components. Other operators in Upper Mustang have brake shoes, spark plugs and clutch parts in their inventory as well. Small repairs can be performed on the way. In contrast, repair issues connected to structural or engine damage need assistance from the recovery team and cannot be made to appear as a temporary solution to the problem.
Satellite Phone Coverage, GPS Tracking and Medical Evacuation Protocols
Mobile coverage on the limited territory of Upper Mustang is not guaranteed. Before setting off, all communication, location and emergency protocols are worked out. We do not state the availability of live GPS tracking or satellite phone service without prior confirmation of the devices for use during the tour.
In the event of an emergency, stabilizing the situation, reaching the nearest road or airstrip, calling for help, and arranging the rider's further evacuation via the insurance company's services will be the main priority. Since Dream Tibet does not cover evacuation or medical expenses, riders should get insurance that would include motorcycle riding and high-altitude evacuation.
Himalayan Riding Conditions, Weather and Dust Management
Riding in Upper Mustang is not defined solely by temperature merely because weather conditions can significantly change depending on wind strength, dust, visibility, and the exposure of the road. After completing more than 60 trips through Upper Mustang in spring 2026 and 20+ trips in September 2026, we plan the riding hours based on the current weather conditions instead of simply assuming that the road would behave the same from the morning till the night.
Navigating High-Velocity Afternoon Kali Gandaki Valley Winds
Known as the corridor of the mighty wind, the Kali Gandaki passage is consistently windy, according to the Nepal Tourism Board.
The way we do things is by attempting to pass through the more exposed areas of our itinerary as early as possible while circumstances allow. In the afternoon, things do not look so rosy, as the wind contributes to the formation of clouds of dust as well as hampers visibility and comfortable overtaking of larger vehicles.
We shall not force riders to ride through an exposed section even if the itinerary states that it is necessary to reach another village in the afternoon. Should the winds start to make control of the bicycle difficult, we shall slow down the group.
Rain-Shadow Climate Riding: Monsoon Season Viability in Upper Mustang
For inexperienced bikers, the Upper Mustang area is considered to be a rain shadow as it is situated behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges. The Nepal Tourism Board claims that the area in this part of the country receives less rain than in the majority of Nepal; hence, it is considered suitable for travelling during the June – September monsoon season.
Being in a rain shadow does not mean that it is completely protected from the monsoons.
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Condition
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Upper Mustang Reality
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Rain
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Much lower than southern Nepal
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Road surface
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Often dry and dusty
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Lower approach
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Can still receive heavy rain
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River crossings
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Can change after upstream rainfall
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Visibility
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Often good, but wind-driven dust matters
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Dust Protection, Eye Care and Face Mask Protocols for Mountain Trails
Dust is probably the most underappreciated aspect of the Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour. Fine dust particles get stuck behind the jeeps, travel inside the helmets, and block the riders’ view when they do not maintain proper distance.
We recommend wearing sealed goggles or full-face visors, neck buffs or dust masks, and keeping distance during the trip.
If a rider cannot see the road well because of the dust, we will not instruct them to stay with the group; instead, we will increase the distance between the vehicles.
International Rider Licensing, Visas and Financial Preparation
For the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour, paperwork and financial preparations could inhibit a rider from carrying out their plans as quickly as mechanical failure. It is important to check these before leaving for the trip because finding out about a problem with licensing, insurance, or finances only at Pokhara would mean unnecessary risks.
Mandatory Riding Documentation: International Driving Permit (IDP) & National License
According to the police in Nepal, the International Driving Permit can be used for driving in Nepal. Riders should also carry the original national motorcycle license that demonstrates that a rider has the corresponding motorcycle entitlement.
Before the start of our 13-day Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour, riders should take with them the following documents:
- Original national motorcycle license
- Valid International Driving Permit
- Passport
- Nepalese visa
- Copies of passport and motorcycle license
- Insurance policy and emergency contacts
Once it’s time to go, we do not accept the “We will take care of the license later” responses. If a rider fails to present proper motorcycle documents, we would prefer to issue a stop to the motorcycle trip before departure instead of running into legal and insurance troubles during the ride.
Local Currency Emergency Fund: ATM Availability & Cash Needs Beyond Pokhara
Our preference is for riders not to rely solely on cards and ATMs while in Pokhara. After the Upper Mustang Motorcycle Tour reaches Jomsom, Kagbeni, and beyond, banking becomes less dependable. Small guesthouses, roadside stalls, local purchases, tips, and unforeseen expenditures can result in a demand for Nepalese rupees.
Our rule is simple:
- Withdraw money before departing Pokhara
- Keep emergency cash separate from daily cash needs
- Carry smaller denominations
- Do not depend on only one card
- Keep some money easy to access and put the rest away securely
The Nepal Tourist Police also recommend using only proper financial institutions for currency exchange.
We do not give riders a specific amount of "exact cash" to take with them, since every individual spends differently. The key point is to ensure that enough local currency is taken from Pokhara so that it can be used safely for a few days without banking access.
Travel Insurance Compliance for High-Altitude Motorcycling
Dream Tibet indicates that personal insurance and emergency evacuation are not part of the package.
When insuring for the Upper Mustang Motorbike Adventure, it should cover exactly:
- Motorcycle riding in Nepal
- Type of motorcycle engine
- Travel up to an altitude of 5,000 m
- Immediate medical attention
- Either helicopter or ground evacuation
- Repatriation if necessary
It is important how the wording works, because some insurance companies do not pay for motorcycle riding if the rider has no license, breaks the law or rides without a helmet.
We do not allow any general travel insurance, as long as it has “adventure” in the title. On the pre-departure stage, riders need to clarify whether their motorcycle riding at high altitudes is accurately insured. If they cannot obtain a written confirmation that their insurance provides such coverage, we will consider it as being unclear and lacking coverage.
Fuel Supply Strategy and Border Region Security
The areas of fuel and border control are two areas where any form of improvisation is considered counterproductive on the Upper Mustang Motor Bike Tour. Once the group crosses Kagbeni, we ensure everyone understands the fuel range, permit validity, and the Kora La turnaround procedures before proceeding north by motorcycle.
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Operating Issue
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How We Handle It
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Why It Matters
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Remote Refueling
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Before leaving the major cities, we make necessary calculations to determine fuel needs and fill up whenever a good opportunity appears. Any excess fuel must be carried only in the appropriate containers if needed on the route ahead.
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Gas stations are less consistent in functioning north of Jomsom and Kagbeni. It is illogical to begin searching for fuel only after the Himalayan or Classic runs out.
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Fuel Quality
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We choose petrol stations with a proven reputation over the gas stations of questionable quality. We also do not boast of having petrol stashes, as the availability of fuel and its quality may significantly change from one day to another.
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Gasoline of low quality or wrongly stored can lead to mechanical issues where workshops are hard to reach.
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Kora La, 4,660m
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Kora La is treated as a controlled border area, and it is not a borderless highway into China. We remind our riders to listen to the instructions of the Nepali customs officers and turn back when they reach the point where the authorities do not allow proceeding.
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Currently, Korala serves as a border point for trade between Nepal and China, where there is a customs operation at the border. That means that border crossings can influence access and car movements.
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Border Photography & Movement
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We do not want anyone to cross barriers, go beyond the allowed borders, or take pictures of the security facilities if it is forbidden to do so.
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Tourism goals do not replace border security procedures. No biker shall be allowed through, eager to find out how close they can get to the border of China.
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Restricted Area Permit
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The papers are analyzed prior to Kagbeni, including one’s passport information, travel dates, and the Upper Mustang restricted-area permission.
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Upper Mustang is charged by the Immigration Department at the rate of $50 per person per day.
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ACAP Documentation
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Riders have Annapurna Conservation Area permit papers with them.
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NTNC states that the ACAP entry fee for foreigners is NRs 3000 and for nationals of SAARC countries it is NRs 1000.
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Checkpoint Verification
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The documents can be easily accessed rather than being hidden away in the support vehicle. The guide is responsible for the whole group’s documents, and each rider is available for verification.
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Upper Mustang remains closed since special permits are required for entry.
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Kagbeni to Lo Manthang
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All checkpoints must be regarded as stopover points, and avoiding them is not an option. In case there are problems with the documents, the bike is frozen until the situation is solved.
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Nepal has drastically changed its Rules and Regulations related to access to restricted areas in 2026.
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In the 13 Days Upper Mustang Motorbike Tour program, our policy is straightforward; we should fill the fuel tank well in advance so that we don't need it at the last minute. The permits need to be checked before entering the restricted zone. Kora La is not an open international crossing but rather a sensitive border point.